Ice climbing in the French Chamonix & Italian Cogne Valley.
This was my first foray into Ice Climbing & I didn’t know quite what to expect not having even tried it at all before but it turned out to be a thoroughly enjoyable experience. I’d say there’s actually less technique involved than in rock climbing (but maybe because it was my first try out), but you certainly need to be fit particularly in the leg area. It’s most certainly an advantage to have previous rock climbing and/or mountaineering skills though for the ropework etc.
The course was organised through Jagged Globe. Most of the hardware kit is also supplied including helmet, ice axes, crampons (harness if necessary) but not boots, for those who are new to the sport. A couple of us were able to hire excellent Millet boots to fit ice climbing crampons at a very good price in Chamonix. It was all well organised and all in all, value for money.
The course was split into two areas. First in the Chamonix valley to learn the basics for a day and the remainder in the Cogne valley in Italy within the Gran Paradiso National Park. This is one of the most beautiful winter locations I have been too and I’d certainly like to return.
Chamonix Valley
The first day was an introduction to ice climbing. One of the best areas in the Chamonix valley, particularly for practice climbs is the area of the Cremerie des Glaciers. Drive towards Grand Montets area near Argentiere. Follow the path up through the woods for about 15 minutes to the climbing. Altitude = 1340 m. The climbs are located just below the snout of the Argentiere glacier. Grid ref 34070934. Grades from French 2-4.
Key to Ice Falls Chamonix Map:
1. Servoz
2. Montvauthier
3. Bocher
4. Fin du Monde
5. Viaduc Sainte-Marie
6. Les Houches
7. Tunnel du Mont Blanc
8. La Para
9. Gorges de l’Arveyron
10.Le Chapeau
11.Montenvers-Pas de Chevre
12.Site Eric Mariaud
13.Aiguille du Midi-Valée Blanche
14.Argentière-La Crémerie
15.Argentière-La Rive gauche du Glacier
16.Argentière-La Rive droite du Glacier
17.Le Tour
18.Col des Montets
19.Le Chatelard
20.Vallée de l’Eau Noire
21.Trient
We climbed a single pitch, grade 2 climb, to practice, name ‘Cerise’. The second practice climb was a grade 3 climb, multi-pitch, name ‘Chantilly’.
Cogne Valley
The following day we drove through the Mont Blanc tunnel to the area of Vallone di Valeille at Cogne in Italys. Based in Valnontey, Val de Cogne is situated on the Val d’Aosta side of the Gran Paradiso National Park. Cogne is rightly regarded as one of the premier ice climbing venues in the world, with a huge variety of over two hundred waterfalls, many of which are situated in a quiet valley just a short walk from the road.
The area consists of two small parallel valleys, the “Valnontey” and the “Vallone di Valeille”. In both valleys there are ice climbs either side of the river, thus climbs are described as Rive Gauche or Rive Droite. The ice routes are located all along these two valleys, 5 Kms deep.
Thanks to the multitude of lines and routes, it’s possible to climb on your own without crossing other parties. There are approximately one hundred routes easy of access in this fantastic area.
Our climb for this day was the ‘Cascade de Lillaz’ (Valeille, rive droite, Grade 3, 250m). This is another great introductory ice climb with 4/5 pitches and is only a 15 min walk-in from Cogne village.
The next day we walked into the tranquil valley of Valnontey, to climb the ‘Patri gauche’ (Valnontey, rive gauche, Grade 4, 220m). One of the classic climbs of this area and thus very popular, we were extremely fortunate to be the only climbers there. This is a 1.5 hr walk-in from La Balme hotel with 5 pitches. Expect a long day, we left at 09:00, returning 18:00.
Our fourth day was again in the area of Valnontey, climbing the ‘Valmania’ (Valnontey, rive gauche, grade 3, 110m). The ice here was not in a great condition, having had a lot of climbs over the season though nevertheless it was still worthwhile. The walkin is short, at half an hour. On the final day, we drove out of Cogne to climb on one of the frozen waterfalls that have formed over the avalanche tunnels that have been built at points over the road. Although a short first pitch, this was the steepest so far and once on top this leads to another steeper, longer pitch (Grade 4).