An ascent of the Matterhorn via the NE Hornli ridge, one of the classic climbs of mountaineering.<\/p>\n
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The climb of the Matterhorn takes place over two days; the first day a short hike from Zermatt up to the Hornli hut. We could not have been luckier with the weather as the high pressure that had stayed over the Alps for most of the week was here to stay with virtually zero wind. After parking at Tasch with lunch at a restaurant across from the railway station we took the bus into Zermatt. From there it was a short walk through the town streets to the Matterhorn Express\/Schwarzee cable car.<\/p>\n
From the top of the cable car a leisurely 1hr 45min hike took us to the Hornli hut. The mountain appears dominating from the Zermatt village & appears to take on different appearances as you approach it. There were times when it seem incredibly daunting and I seriously doubted my ability to climb it, yet from other angles and ranges it did not appear that it would be a problem. Strangely these views were not at all dependent upon distance to the mountain. Sometimes it would appear un-climable further away, sometimes closer.
\nThe hut can accommodate about 100 people and was reasonably busy even for this latter part of the year. We arrived around 5pm and after finding our bunks & sorting out gear we spent some time generally staring up at this enoromous rock fact that towered above us trying to figure out the route that would lead us to the summit. After dinner there isin\u2019t really much else to do in the evening except try and relax, double-check gear and ensure it is all ready for the morning. Lights out occurs at 9pm, as a very early start was the order of the morning.<\/p>\n
Around 4am, people in the bunks start to stir and soon after the hut is a throng of climbers putting on their necessary gear and wolfing down a quick breakfast. I couldn\u2019t manage much food but tried to drink as much liquid as possible. Luca, my guide and I were outside and ready to go just before 05:00.<\/p>\n
As we tied together on the rope I looked up to the ridge and already it was possible to see the stream of head lights, brightly silhouetted against the dark mountain face, heading upwards. The first two hours were climbed in the dark and I don\u2019t remember much, apart from feeling the altitude for the first half hour where I really felt out of breath. This was slightly worrying as this was the easiest part of the climb, but once we reached the rock scrambling I soon got into a rhythm. Luca was good and allowed me to go at my own pace though we didn\u2019t stop at all until the Solvay hut, shortly after the light. We had reached the hut just after 2.5 hrs and 2 hrs is a good time.<\/p>\n
Moreover, I felt good and strong and the exposure, which had been my possible cause for concern hadn\u2019t had any effect upon me at all. I could now see a large group of climbers just ahead making their way up to the steep part just below the shoulder.<\/p>\n