{"id":365,"date":"2009-07-21T19:59:35","date_gmt":"2009-07-21T19:59:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/?p=365"},"modified":"2018-09-09T19:41:50","modified_gmt":"2018-09-09T19:41:50","slug":"mountaineering-italy-dolomites-presanella","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/?p=365","title":{"rendered":"An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Alpine Mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites climbing the peak of the Presanella. This peak above 3,500 m is the highest in the Adamello range of mountains.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<h3><em><strong>A short hike to the Segantini hut&#8230;wine with your meal!<\/strong><\/em><\/h3>\n<p>The first part of the Presanella climb is a short hike to the Segantini hut. This involved a short drive to the car park Carisolo, which takes you past some wonderful scenery. Note that the road is narrow &amp; windy and that the last mile is more of a rugged track than a road. Still, it is certainly driveable with an ordinary car in good conditions. The hike is only 1hr 15mins &amp; we arrived about 6pm at the hut that can accommodate ~20 people in 5 rooms. We found it too be quiet as the weather in the previous weeds had been poor. The food was excellent as it always is in the Italian huts &amp; we took the opportunity in the soft evening light to take some good photographs.<\/p>\n<h3><em><strong>Monte Nero Pass&#8230;.not a good experience.<\/strong><\/em><\/h3>\n<p>The following morning, Tues, 21 Jul we awoke at 04:00 for a 05:00 start, just as it starts to cast the mountains in light and also when the ice is firmer. Our route was to follow the South-East ridge route through the Monte Nero pass. The weather forecast was perfect; dry and fair with a small amount of cloud which would keep the heat of the sun off us for most of the day. The path starts with a fairly easy hike up a moraine ridge known as the \u2018Donkey\u2019s back\u2019. This leads up to the Monte Nero glacier which is a short hike up to the Monte Nero pass. The snow was soft enough and the hike not steep enough to require crampons.<\/p>\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-774 .fg-image { width: 640px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-image-viewer foogallery-link-image foogallery-lightbox-none fg-center fg-image-viewer fg-ready fg-dark fg-border-medium fg-round-small fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-always fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom fg-no-js\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-774\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:true,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:false},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;,&quot;template&quot;:{&quot;loop&quot;:true,&quot;autoplay&quot;:0}}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fiv-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-inner-container\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09572-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"407\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09572-copy-1\/2019208691.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09445-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"414\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09445-copy-1\/657014773.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09459-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Presanella hut\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"415\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09459-copy-1\/2659798852.jpg\" alt=\"Presanella hut\" title=\"Presanella hut\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Presanella hut<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09462-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"416\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09462-copy-1\/2683470852.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1020997-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"418\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/P1020997-copy-1\/1707196006.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1030065-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"422\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/P1030065-copy-1\/3529964353.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1030089-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Looking back down plateau.\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"424\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/P1030089-copy-1\/2163151063.jpg\" title=\"Looking back down plateau.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Looking back down plateau.<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1030096-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Steve on the snow gulley ascent\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"425\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/P1030096-copy-1\/674368031.jpg\" title=\"Steve on the snow gulley ascent\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Steve on the snow gulley ascent<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09522-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Route across plateau to pass.\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"428\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09522-copy-1\/2021568920.jpg\" title=\"Route across plateau to pass.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Route across plateau to pass.<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-ctrls\">\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-prev\" title=\"Prev\"><span>Prev<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t\t<label class=\"fiv-count\"><span class=\"fiv-count-current\">1<\/span>of<span class=\"fiv-count-total\">10<\/span><\/label>\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-next\" title=\"Next\"><span>Next<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The pass unfortunately was not what we expected, consisting of a crumbling mass of rock &amp; scree which was considerably loose. For safety we went up one at a time, but it was fairly dangerous in parts as any slip would have been disastrous. The loosest rock is on the first 30m or so but after that the rock is firmer and the going easier. On the top of the pass a via ferrata leads down to the glacier on the other side. Here it is another short hike to the top of the glacier. At the top of the glacier the route follows over a small rock band to a broad snow laden ridge, but I noticed an excellent snow gully to the left about 100m in length with a slope of about 50 degrees which looked very enticing.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09546-copy-1-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-430\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09546-copy-1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09546-copy-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09546-copy-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09546-copy-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Once on top of the broad ridge the summit can be seen in the distance but don\u2019t be deceived though as there is still a lot more climbing to do. A rocky ridge leads around to what appears to lead to the final snow ridge to the summit, however the route is abruptly halted as the ridge becomes knife edge with extreme exposure on each side.<br \/>\nIt is necessary to descend down a small rocky gully (piton at the top) about 20m before traversing across an exposed rocky ledge about 40m before ascending on the other side and scrambling to the left to the emergency bivvy hut. This avoids the extreme knife edge rocks but this alternative is not without its exposure and dangers.<br \/>\nThe rock is again extremely loose and there are only 2 pitons placed in the rock. A rope is a necessity along with a few slings and karabiners. This route took us quite a while as we only had a 25m rope which meant we had to set up a few more belay stations on rock that doesn\u2019t permit steadfast anchors. Additionally, at the end of the traverse before the scramble there is a small gully that was full of ice and loose rock.<\/p>\n<h3><em><strong>Descent turned into an epic&#8230;.<\/strong><\/em><\/h3>\n<p>Once above the bivvy hut it is then a traverse across a snow slope &amp; then up a ridge. The large amount of snow over the winter meant it was still deep lying so it was hard going at times as the summer melt caused the snow surface to slip. We arrived at the summit at 3pm taking 10hrs, for a route that should normally take about 5 hrs.<\/p>\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-775 .fg-image { width: 640px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-image-viewer foogallery-link-image foogallery-lightbox-none fg-center fg-image-viewer fg-ready fg-dark fg-border-medium fg-round-small fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-always fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom fg-no-js\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-775\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:true,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:false},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;,&quot;template&quot;:{&quot;loop&quot;:true,&quot;autoplay&quot;:0}}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fiv-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-inner-container\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09584-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Me approaching Presanella summit.\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"412\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09584-copy-1\/2619899574.jpg\" alt=\"Climber approaching Presanella summit.\" title=\"Me approaching Presanella summit.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Me approaching Presanella summit.<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1030115-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Steve on final summit ridge\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"429\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/P1030115-copy-1\/3079105313.jpg\" alt=\"Climber on final summit ridge of Presanella\" title=\"Steve on final summit ridge\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Steve on final summit ridge<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09564-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Me on the snow plateau\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"433\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09564-copy-1\/223392090.jpg\" alt=\"Climber on the snow plateau of Presanella.\" title=\"Me on the snow plateau\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Me on the snow plateau<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09565-copy-1.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Me on the Presanella ascent\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"434\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/07\/DSC09565-copy-1\/3513292463.jpg\" alt=\"Climber on the Presanella ascent.\" title=\"Me on the Presanella ascent\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Me on the Presanella ascent<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1030118-copy-Custom.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Steve &amp;amp; I on the Presanella summit.\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"1065\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/08\/P1030118-copy-Custom\/405584841.jpg\" alt=\"Climbers on the Presanella summit.\" title=\"Steve &amp; I on the Presanella summit.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Steve &amp; I on the Presanella summit.<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/DSC09548-copy-Custom.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Approach to snow gulley\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"1067\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/08\/DSC09548-copy-Custom\/445931066.jpg\" title=\"Approach to snow gulley\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Approach to snow gulley<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/DSC09570-copy-Custom.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Me belaying Steve across rocky ledge traverse\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"1068\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/08\/DSC09570-copy-Custom\/2121130072.jpg\" title=\"Me belaying Steve across rocky ledge traverse\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Me belaying Steve across rocky ledge traverse<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/DSC09575-copy-Custom.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Traverse (bottom right) across exposed rocky ledge\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"1069\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/08\/DSC09575-copy-Custom\/3018606491.jpg\" title=\"Traverse (bottom right) across exposed rocky ledge\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Traverse (bottom right) across exposed rocky ledge<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/DSC09586-copy-Custom.jpg\" data-caption-title=\"Final approach to summit with cross on top.\" data-caption-desc=\"2009-07  An epic on the Presanella in the Dolomites\" data-attachment-id=\"1071\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/cache\/2018\/08\/DSC09586-copy-Custom\/2186065683.jpg\" alt=\"Final approach to Presanella summit\" title=\"Final approach to summit with cross on top.\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-title\">Final approach to summit with cross on top.<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-ctrls\">\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-prev\" title=\"Prev\"><span>Prev<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t\t<label class=\"fiv-count\"><span class=\"fiv-count-current\">1<\/span>of<span class=\"fiv-count-total\">9<\/span><\/label>\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-next\" title=\"Next\"><span>Next<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>We left the summit fairly quickly at 3:20pm as there was a 5hr descent via the Cantoni pass, forming a circular route back to the hut. The route takes a 50m descent retracing your steps and then veers off to the right down the steep snow slope; then through a small rock band and onto the glacier. Here I had some fun descending fast down the snow slope on my stomach using the ice axe arrest to stop. It is then an enjoyable walk along the snow beneath the cliffs to the left to a section of large boulders.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09462-copy-1-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-416\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09462-copy-1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09462-copy-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/DSC09462-copy-1.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>This leads to another similar ridge to the donkeys back on the way up. Care is required here not to descend too far down this ridge as the path veers off to the left towards the pass and is not well marked.<br \/>\nThe Cantoni pass was itself sligthly easier than the Monte Nero pass and on the other side we trekked through boulders, across snow, down scree and eventually into sight of the hut. We made it in 5 hrs arriving at 8:50pm. We debated whether to stay but preferred to get down to the car even though we had been walking for 16 hrs! There was only about an hour of light left so after a very quick 15min stop we headed off. We knew the track was well marked from this point and we had a head torch so weren\u2019t concerned and arrived safely at the car in the near darkness at 9:45pm. It was an extremely long day but we had enjoyed the climb immensely &amp; had the whole of the mountain to ourselves for the whole time.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Alpine Mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites climbing the peak of the Presanella. This peak above 3,500 m is the highest in the Adamello range of mountains.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":433,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,9],"tags":[19],"class_list":["post-365","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-italy","category-mountaineering","tag-dolomites"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/365","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=365"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/365\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":777,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/365\/revisions\/777"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/433"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=365"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=365"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.prwilliams-photography.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=365"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}