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You are here: Home > ClimbHome > Scotland - Northern Highlands - Mar08_2

Site Last Updated: 02/Apr/2011

Leaving the Sligachan hotel at 10:30 it wasn’t long before I was walking in the snow which became hard going as there was no track and the powder knee deep in places. In parts, the fresh snow overlay frozen snow requiring the use of crampons. Stupidly I had not bothered to bring mine so in places I had to kick steps and tread carefully.

As the track runs out turn SW up a snow/scree slope, below Meall Odhar, then turn up towards the ridge which leads to Sgurr a Bhasteir at 898m. This ridge is certainly more imposing than it first looks requiring a degree of scrambling that was a bit tricky in the ice and snow of winter.
Am Bastier, Bruach na Frithe, Glenbrittle, Isle of Skye, Sligachan, Highlands, hiking, Scotland
I didn’t fancy either and remembered from my mountaineering training to form a star shape (when ice axe not in hand) in an attempt to maximise surface area. I did so and managed to bring myself to a stop about 30m from the cliff edge. It really shook me up and it was the closest I have ever come in the mountains to really hurting myself badly. Given that I had only seen two people on the same track all day this made it even more dangerous. Even after coming to a stop, the slope was now so steep and icy that I was gradually still slipping downwards.

I had to steady myself, recover my poles, pull myself together and very very carefully kick steps into the frozen snow about 20m to the more stable snow to the side. It was a great reminder to always be aware as much as possible of the conditions and always take ice axe and crampons even if you don’t think you’ll need them.

Having stood on the top of Sgurr a Bhasteir I noticed a group of hikers below descending a snow valley and looking upwards this led towards a wonderful ridge of about 100m besides Am Bastier towards the peak of Bruach na Frithe at 958m. I decided then this would be a great hike to do the next day. The path starts opposite a Forestry car park named ‘Fairy Pools’ and is about 200yds beyond the ‘Square Mile’ car park. Leaving at 10:00, I followed the footpath besides the Forestry reaching the small tarn at Bealach a Mhaim at 11:15.
After an hour and a quarter just beyond the edge of the Forest I left the path at the tarn, walking around the buttress at Bealach a Mhaim and headed up the snow covered valley of Fionn Choire. The weather started off fair, with the odd front of light snow passing over quickly but as I ascended further the weather closed in more frequently. The snow was much deeper than I expected though I did manage to find the trail probably from the people I had seen yesterday. At times, however this was covered over with wind blown snow causing me to break trail sometimes in knee deep soft snow.
As I approached the final steep climb to the base of the ridge, the weather closed in again reducing visibility to about 30m and I took the opportunity for a break. Once the weather cleared again I ascended the steep snow slope to the base of the ridge at Am Basteir but no sooner had I done so than the cloud closed in again. The time was 1:45 and the wind had increased strongly too, gusting enough to have to steady myself with poles not to be blown over. This made it quite treacherous on the ridge and with the poor visibility now down to about 10m I decided to sit it out hoping for the weather to clear again. I cleared a ledge in the snow sat down and waited. After 20 mins of thinking it wasn’t going to clear, suddenly a window opened and the summit and ridge appeared in full view.


However, the wind was still strong and I could see another cloud front quickly approaching so I made a dash up the ridge for the remaining 100m or so to the summit. Unfortunately, the wind seemed to increase in power and 30m from the top the slope steepened to an area covered in frozen snow. As I didn’t have my crampons I decided to kick in steps but the progress was slow. The mist and cloud then enveloped me again reducing visibility down to 30m and I considered it too dangerous to attempt to continue. After yesterdays escapade and the fact that I had only again seen two people all day I thought it was a wise move. After all the mountain will always be there.
Bruach na Frithe, Glenbrittle, Isle of Skye, Sligachan, Highlands, hiking, Scotland
I returned back down the valley a little annoyed that I hadn’t reached the top but nevertheless having enjoyed another great day out in Scotland’s mountains. I got back to the car park at 4:45 only to find I had left my car lights on! A call to the AA meant an hour wait  for someone to come out from Portree (very luckily this car park is one of the few areas on the Glenbrittle road where you can actually get a mobile reception). Fortunately, this gave me the opportunity to take some beautiful photographs when the soft light is at its best.

Details:
Flights - flew with Flybe to Inverness airport.
Car Hire - Enterprise Rent-a-car.
Accommodation - Glenbrittle campsite, Sligachan Inn.

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Sgurr a Bhasteir, Glenbrittle, Isle of Skye, Sligachan, Highlands, hiking, Scotland
I reached the summit at 3pm and as the weather held out the views were fantastic. Sgurr nan Gillean looks a serious climb via either pinnacle or west ridge though there does seem to be an easier line up the snow slope below pinnacle ridge.      
I left soon after returning to Sligachan at 5:15, however the return was not without its scares! Rather than return down the ridge I decided to descend slightly below and follow the snow line. Sometimes it is fun if the conditions are right and saves a lot of time to skid down the snow slope on your backside using your poles or ice axe as a break.

This started off fine on one slope but on the second there was a hidden patch of ice beneath the fresh snow and I started to career off down the slope quite fast. I tried to break with my poles (I had also not bothered to bring my ice axe ;-(), but they had no effect and soon I was skidding down the hill at a worrying speed and out of control. It was a very scary moment as I started to bump over hidden rocks. Very quickly the edge of the slope came into view and it became apparent that if I did not stop I would break an ankle/leg on one of the protruding rocks or be ejected over the edge onto rocks about 30m below resulting in serious injury or possibly worse.