© Paul Robert Williams
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Site Last Updated: 02/Apr/2011
I flew into Inverness the evening before and stayed overnight in Ullapool with the expectation of some decent mountaineering in the Scottish Highlands. Unfortunately, when I awoke the following day the weather was not good; very dark clouds with a low base of about 500m. To cap it all the forecast for the coming week didn’t show much of an improvement but in any case this is what you have to expect in Scotland and it’s certainly a great way to prepare for the Alps and improve navigational skills!
It’s a half an hour drive from Ullapool to the car park just before the Inchydamp hotel and once kitted up I departed at 10:15. By this time the fine drizzly rain (so common to Scotland!) had already started. The first part of the walk is fairly easy following a well-defined track until it reaches a small patch of forest where the path splits. Here the path narrows though it is still well-defined. It follows the river for the most part but can be very boggy in places.
After a while the path veers NNE & steepens for a climb up to a well-defined rock band with views back to Loch Mhaolach-coire. By this time the rain had stopped the the cloud lifted with even a hint of sun breaking through though unfortunately this was short-lived as the cloud base remained around 700m and the route was now to soon take me above this height and into the gloom once again where visibility was reduced to around 30m.
After passing over the rock band to reach the pass, the less well defined path veers SSE towards the summit of Conival. The going here though is horrible; a scree slope of ankle-breaking, knee-jerking rocks to walk over. I was certainly glad of my purchase of a GPS for the first time where I was able to confirm my position on the map when obtaining references was impossible. Fortunately, further along higher up the ridge becomes more defined. There were also larger patches of snow ensuring that the going became easier on the feet. It was just at this point that I came across another hiker sheltering from the incessant wind (which had started to increase in speed) among a pocket of rocks. This was
the first person I had seen since leaving the car park. We chatted briefly and then both departed towards the summit of Conival. I think we both took solace in walking together due to the poor conditions even though nothing was said about continuing together towards the summit. We didn’t need too.
This flattish ridge eventually curves round to the left to the summit of Conival where we arrived at 2:15pm. We stopped for a rest and some energy intake. I discovered this gentleman was Scottish, and looked in his early sixties. I was impressed with his fitness & we talked briefly for some more and as neither of us wanted to hang around soon headed off along the ridge towards Ben More Assynt. If I’d known what was in store I probably wouldn’t have bothered!
There is a steep, short descent from Conival, but then the ridge takes the form of more of those knee-jarring rocks, boulders & loose scree that I despise. The weather had further detoriarated too and now was really blowing hard enough to knock you off balance, with bouts of sleet that just stabbed into the face like sharp needles. Visiblity was down to 20-30m so I was certainly glad when we arrived at the second munro of the day at 3:15pm. The wind picked up even more on the return and so it was a hard, tiring slog on the return. Once below the cloud base at 700m the visibility improved dramatically and I eventually returned to the car at 7:15pm. It was pleasing to bag a further two Munro peaks, but if the truth be known neither would be in my favourites list!
The next day, Thurs 09 Apr, Forecast was for cloud, although a higher base than yesterday but very windy gusting up to 70mph ! Because of this I decided upon a sightseeing day. This took me along the coastal road around Gairloch, past Loch Maree & onto Kinlochewe for wonderful close up views of Beinn Eighe, eventually on toward Applecross.
On the Friday my plan was to climb Sgurr nan Clach Geala, a 20 min drive from Ullapool but on the approach Sgurr Breac & A’Chailleach presented a more appealing hike with snowy ridges. The former Munro is also a good hike but needs a good bed of snow to make it worthwhile.
I didn’t follow the Munro guide for this walk, as a far superior approach is to follow the Allt Breabaig all the way up to its source at the col between Geala & Each. Follow this
On the Friday my plan was to climb Sgurr nan Clach Geala, a 20 min drive from Ullapool but on the approach Sgurr Breac & A’Chailleach presented a more appealing hike with snowy ridges. The former Munro is also a good hike but needs a good bed of snow to make it worthwhile.
I didn’t follow the Munro guide for this walk, as a far superior approach is to follow the Allt Breabaig all the way up to its source at the col between Geala & Each. Follow this
for most of the way on the right as there is a fairly well defined path and about ¾ of the way up cross over to the left side (by the disused & derelict bothy with only small parts of the walls standing) where there is also a well-defined path.
On the approach the ridge up to Sgurr Breac looks imposing but as you reach the top point of this valley it becomes less intimidating & is actually a fairly easy & enjoyable climb. The path to the summit is still well defined and I arrived at 2:15 pm. The weather was cloudy but well above the munro tops and although windy gusting to about 50mph it was not as bad as the previous two days. This did ease in the afternoon as forecast.
Once on the summit the descent West to Tomain Coinich is not difficult and then there is another enjoyable ridge walk up to A’Chailleach. Follow the old metal posts to the summit though note that this summit looks closer to Sgurr Breac than it actually is. I arrived at 4:25 pm & by this time the wisps of cloud had started to cover the tops occassionally so I didn’t hang around. I descended to Tomain Coinich again and headed North down the flattish broad ridge all the way to the nose of Leithr Fhearna. Once on the nose the descent is fairly steep, eroded in parts and boggy. However, it is far better to return by this route than ascend this way.
Again for the following day the forecast was not good with winds approaching 30-40mph gusting to 55mph on the tops. Having been buffeted almost constantly for the past two
days I decided against any munro bagging today. This time I headed North & drove to Achnahaird beach, passing Stac Pollaidh on the way, then up through Lochinver and on to Clachtoll beach. This is a beautiful beach & well worth a visit. Alas, this was the final full day of my stay and although this time I had only managed 2 days of munro bagging I never tire of visiting Scotland.
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