© Paul Robert Williams
You can also view details by country, region & date by using the Menu bar below.
You are here: Home > ClimbHome > Italy - Dolomites - Jun08
Site Last Updated: 02/Apr/2011
Our climbing was centred around the Brenta-Dolomites in the Trentino region & the first day was spent single-pitch rock climbing. This region is blessed with literally hundreds of routes ARCO ROCK by Mario Manica, Antonella Cicigna, Davide Negretti). We found an area in the Giudicarie Valley a great area for good warm up climbing for the multi-pitch route the next day. The rock face is accessible after a very short walk and is well maintained.
We planned to spend the next three days high in the Brenta Dolomites, one for a long multi-pitch climb & the remainder for hiking and via ferrata. It was an early start and at 05:00 we left Stenico to drive north where we parked at Rifugio Vallesinella. It was already warm, in the high 20 degrees even at this early in the morning & at 06:00 we met our guide before the pleasant hike starting through the forest and eventually amongst the boulders and rocks as we approached Rifugio del Tuckett.
We arrived by 08:00 & made our way up to the scree slope to the base of Castelleto Inferiore, a 250m Grade 5 climb of 12 pitches via the South Face ‘Kiene’ route. It was a fantastic climb and we completed it in just less than the guide book time of 3 hours. After returning to the hut we made most of the time with a short walk of the route we intended to do the next day. We seemed to time it to perfection as on our return the heavens opened, followed by a brilliant sheet lightening thunderstorm in the evening.
The Rifugio was excellent with friendly staff, good food and the dorms accommodating approx 6 per room. At this time of the year it was still fairly quiet as the season had just
started. To my surprise there was even a TV available where we were able to watch the European Championship final high up in the Dolomites!
The following day it was our intention to undertake the Bocchette Alte path which is one of the high altitude via ferrata of the region, reaching up to 3000m with spectacular panoramas. Unfortunately, late season snow meant that some of the cable remained buried under snow and ice. The staff at the rifugio who are always a great source of advice on conditions told us that no one had yet attempted the route this season. As we were without crampons we decided to take the lower altitude route (305b ‘Sosat’).
We left at 08:30 with the weather again perfect and sunny but not too warm. This is an enjoyable ferrata, not too difficult with some exposed parts on long ladders. The views are also fantastic & after several photo stops we arrived at Rifugio
Alimonta. We had intended this to be an intermediary stop, pushing on to Rifugio Tosa/Pedrottu via the Bocchette Centrale route, though again we found out this had a steep section still under snow, so we amended our plans to stay at the Alimonta and do a circular walk (396 – 323 Detassis) in the afternoon.
We retraced part of our steps and then turned right up into a glacial bowl where ice axes were immediately necessary. We soon found the start of the ferrata which consisted of multiple ladders moving high up the rock face to the top at the Bochette Bassa dei Massodi, a narrow ridge that falls away steeply on both sides. There is a further section of via ferrata before reaching a plateau (still deep in snow) before the path curves back around and descends along the glacial slopes below Bocca Dei Armi. On these glacial slopes we took the opportunity to practice ice axe arrests throwing ourselves down the slopes.
We retraced part of our steps and then turned right up into a glacial bowl where ice axes were immediately necessary. We soon found the start of the ferrata which consisted of multiple ladders moving high up the rock face to the top at the Bochette Bassa dei Massodi, a narrow ridge that falls away steeply on both sides. There is a further section of via ferrata before reaching a plateau (still deep in snow) before the path curves back around and descends along the glacial slopes below Bocca Dei Armi. On these glacial slopes we took the opportunity to practice ice axe arrests throwing ourselves down the slopes.
The return back to the car park the next day was an easy hike. We left at 08:30 after breakfast in the Rifugio and it was a pleasant 3hr walk down returning along routes 323 and 318 passing the Brentei hut. The weather was again ideal, neither too warm or too cold.
Details:
Flights - flew with BA to Verona Int. Airport; Car Hire - Hertz.
Accommodation - Tuckett & Adamello Hut.
Flights -
Fri 04 Jul: The forecast for our climb to the Adamello summit was good. It was another very early start at 05:30 to ensure we crossed the glacier at the best time for stability and cooler temperatures. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect and it was a gloriously still, day, the dawning light casting a pink glow across the glacier to the mountains in the distance as we stepped onto the snow just after first light. The route was not marked though it is not difficult in good weather to find you way to the summit. At this time of year there is enough snow to cover the crevasses though we roped up to be sure.
The route follows a path below the Cresta Croce (upon which the cross and the Cannon are to be found), steers below the Lombardia Trentino-Alto Adige for a short while and then veers off towards the base of the Corno Bianco. The views across
The route follows a path below the Cresta Croce (upon which the cross and the Cannon are to be found), steers below the Lombardia Trentino-
the glacier were stunning and very intermittently the piercing light would be shadowed by thin cloud that would obscure our view though thankfully this was always short-lasting. It added to the eerie sense of isolation as we were the only two souls in the vast landscape, not setting eyes on any other climbers the whole time. We did hear faint voices in at one point in time and briefly caught sight of three other climbers as specks in the distance though we were never to see or hear them again.
Just beyond here there is a steep slope that takes you to the Ghiacciaio dell’Adamello. From here the Adamello summit is in full view and we were advised to head towards the M.Falcone peak and then follow the snow line to the left all the way below the ridge that leads to an obstacle of rocks. This is a short steep scramble (aided by a fixed rope) of about 100m and two further snow slopes that leads to the summit standing at 3,539m. We arrived at 10:45am, 4 ½ hrs from the start.
By 11:00 we had left the summit after taking in the glorious views and some much needed refreshment. We followed our same route back although now the full aspect of the midday sun meant that the surface melting snow hampered our return slowing our progress. We returned to the Rifugio at 14:30 to pick up the gear we had left behind & rested on the veranda before setting off again for the return home. This time the path leads down the same snow slope below the Rifugio but then bears off to the right down a very steep slope that leads to the edge of the glacier itself. Here we walked along its edge criss-crossing the small crevasses that are visibly open
at this lower level due to less snow cover before crossing the glacier to the other side. The glacier at this point is mainly ice but care is still needed for the crossing.
On the other side the path then leads to the Rifugio Mandrone, a hut that is superbly situated further down the valley with the expansive mouth of the glacier as its focal point. After another quick stop there is a vast amount of height to lose in order to descend to 1640m at the Rifugio Bedole, which means endless switchbacks across the valley as you descend into the forest. All in all it was a tremendously long day as we arrived, finally and exhausted at 20:00 hrs after 12 ½ hrs walking !